There is something about brunch, as a meal, that makes me feel like I am cheating – in a good way. It’s not that I either need or want an extra meal, but that I might be sneaking one in, when my stomach least expects a treat.
And my review of The Drift, located in the Heron Tower on Bishopsgate, was to be a real treat. A customary end-of-holiday treat for the Smalls and, even more so as they were to be the reviewers of this rather cool brasserie in this extremely tall building.
Initially – I should add – they were disappointed that The Drift was not at the top of this tower. But they soon forgot once they had clapped eyes on the most enormous fish tank (largest private fish home in Northern Europe, I was told) and from there, the brunch treats kept coming.
Juices (strawberry, watermelon & lime £4.50), fresh mixed berries with honeyed yoghurt (£5.25) and a split stack (yet still plenty) of pancakes with maple syrup and candy dust (£6.15) kept them quiet, happy and nodding approvingly.
And I wasn’t disappointed either. My Californian Kick Start (poached eggs on toasted rye with hummus, guacamole, mushrooms and tomato sweet chilli sauce £7.95) was too large to finish (I promise I had not had breakfast earlier).
Asked to describe the restaurant, I was offered words such as ‘big, smart and busy with friendly people working there.’ I agree. It is big but it is attractive (although I have to be honest I wasn’t a fan of the dubious nautical theme) and buzzy. If I worked in a nearby office, I would, without doubt, use the restaurant as a meeting location – and without doubt skip breakfast at home.
Disappointment of not being able to see the view from the top of the City’s tallest building returned as we left The Drift. So, I somehow (against protocol) managed to edge our way into the Sushi Samba lift for yet another end-of-holiday treat.
0845 468 0103
110 Bishopsgate EC2